Harrison L5 Lathe Manual Cnc Milling
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I have a 1965 Harrison L5 9' swing lathe. I also have the Harrison gear cutting attachment, milling table, and vertical slide. I have an itch to try my hand at gear cutting, but I think I'm missing a few fundamentals, and I have some questions too (probably silly ones) that I need answered. What method is used to mount the cutting tool between the tail stock and the chuck?
What kind of cutting tools are used - what are they called so I can google them? Is there some kind of shaft you can get to mount the blank between the chuck on the attachment and it's tailstock? Maybe I should post some photos of what I'm talking about, I have a feeling that using a lathe to cut gears is somewhat unorthodox! Anyway, hopefully some of you can help!
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Cheers, Seamus. It and other similar ones were written in England by contributors to Model Engineering Magazine. They usually show how to use a Myford 7 lathe to cut gears. In England, model engineers do everything on their lathe, so it is not unorthodox in that context.
I am of the school that believes in having as many dedicated proper and professional machines as I can afford and fit in my shop. Materi kelas 2 sd. So I cut my gears in one of my milling machines, but could do it on a lathe if I wished. The cutters are called gear cutters. They fit on an arbor that you make yourself. The English books tell ways to make your own gear cutters if you don't want to buy them or need a special type.
It will be very hard to find an old 3MT arbor for a horizontal mill to hold your gear cutter. Such arbors were made to fit certain small horizontal milling machines (Atlas, Barker?), but it would take the luck of the Irish to find one these days. You can find a 1' straight shank stub arbor in catalogs, but they might be too short for your purpose. An R8 shank arbor to fit a Bridgeport milling machine right angle attachment has enough straight shank to let you hold it in a lathe chuck and is pretty long. Use a 4-jaw and get it running dead true. It is a simple thing to hold a 1.25' steel bar in your lathe chuck and turn it down to 7/8' or 1' to fit a standard gear cutter.
If you are into turning between centers, do that with your blank bar. That saves you from centering the bar in a chuck.
The end by the tailstock gets threaded smaller than the 7/8' or 1' for a big nut. You can buy nice hardened steel arbor spacers with 7/8' or 1' bores in any thickness you could want. The nut tightens to hold the cutter between some spacers, far enough out from the lathe spindle to get the cutter to engage the blank gear and not run foul of anything else. Brown & Sharpe (USA) more or less invented standard involute form gear cutters and mills to use them around 150 years ago.
You can still buy gear cutters to B&S design and dimensions, including the inch bore sizes, but now made in China. Clock gear cutters were not standardized worldwide, so there are too many sizes for one person to afford to buy them all.
They are usually cycloidal form. And some old designs are not made any more. That is one reason you need to be able to make your own, usually fly cutter type. P Thornton in England makes a line of standard cutters for clocks, as does Bergeon in Switzerland. They are very expensive, and they are for metric arbors. Google will lead you to lots of information.
Hi fellas, well I know you are both right, it does seem foolhardy to be buying things that could be made on a lathe, but, you're forgeting one thing.Even though the lathe is capable of making these lovely things, it's owner is not. I've never managed to produce anything nice and 'useable' like an arbor, I usually get a rough, torn kind of finish, no matter what type of cutting tools I use. I gave up trying to cut threads a long time ago, the result was something that more resembled a round file, more than a thread!
I wouln't even put myself in the same league as amateur, I just like playing with the thing and maybe if I play enough with it, I will unlock it's secrets. I don't have any collets or any clue how to use them, I do have the catchplate, faceplate for the lathe tho. I definately don't have a taper atachment for turning a MT! Thanks again guys! I've never managed to produce anything nice and 'useable' like an arbor, I usually get a rough, torn kind of finish, no matter what type of cutting tools I use. I gave up trying to cut threads a long time ago, the result was something that more resembled a round file, more than a thread!